Feb 15

Feb 15 Algarve Region

No trip to Portugal is complete without visiting the Algarve region on the country’s southern coast and for us, this was the best part of our trip. Some of our favorite memories of visiting Portugal were from the times that we spent exploring the beautiful beaches and towns of the Algarve and to this day, Nina still has “saudade” whenever she reminisces of our time there. The people are so welcoming, the beaches are quite stunning (whether it be dramatic cliff structures, red and white rock beaches or deserted beaches that you find while hiking/canoeing) and best of all, the food is perfect (which is really the only way to describe the gastronomical delight that is the Algarve region). Traveling around the region actually feels like you’ve stumbled upon the most idyllic little paradise with each town more memorable than the last and to be honest, we selfishly didn’t even want to write this blog post, lest hordes of rude tourists start arriving and spoiling it. Nevertheless, the Algarve region is officially one of our favorite places in the world to visit and if anybody out there in the internet universe is reading this, we really hope that you consider experiencing this little slice of heaven at least once in your lifetime. You will not regret it.

Best Beaches

Praia da Marinha - Without question, this was our favorite beach that we visited during our trip. The dramatic rocky beaches with imposing cliffs, calm waters, caves and nearby hiking trail make this beach unparalleled in both beauty and activities available. The best time to go is either early morning or late afternoon close to sunset as you will avoid most crowds. Both the sunrise and sunsets on this beach are spectacular and if you are driving a camper or RV (recreational vehicle), you can park your vehicle in the parking lot at the foot of the cliff and watch the sunrise and sunset from a highpoint. If you are in the Algarve this is a must see on your itinerary.
Praia do Benagil - Coming in a close second on our favorite beaches list is Praia do Benagil. Apart from the tall cliffs that engulf it, this beach is a great place for hiring boat tours of the nearby caves and dramatic coastline. The most popular of these is Benagil cave, with its iconic circular hole at the top and multiple points of entry that allow unique beams of sun rays to light the crystal clear blue-green waters below. It almost looks like some kind of beach temple from the inside. There is also an excellent hiking trail that starts from the parking lot and takes you over the cliffs of the coastline and finishes at Praia da Marinha (see previous entry). This is a very easy trail that any able bodied person can hike and the views of the coastline and ocean at any time of day will truly take your breath away. This is a must do activity.
Praia do Camilo - Yet another Instagram worthy beach that we visited on our trip. Not only are there imposing rock cliffs surrounding the beach, but even out in the ocean close to the shore you will notice interesting rock formations that make for perfect photo opportunities. In order to get there, you must park your car at the top of a steep cliff next to Camilo restaurant and then walk down several flights of wooden stairs. Please note, the shoreline of this beach is very small and thus, there is not much space for laying a towel and sunbathing. Also, be prepared to arrive early because the parking situation is extremely limited.
Praia da Dona Ana - Located close to the popular tourist town of Lagos, Dona Ana is a large beach that is a mix between Praia do Camilo (see previous entry) and Praia da Marinha. There is ample parking and you must make your way down to the beach via steep staircase but once you are at the bottom you will realize just how tiny you are compared to those dramatic cliff rock structures around you and in the water. It’s truly impressive and yet so peaceful. There are also several activities available here such as hiking, boat tours and a small outdoor restaurant on the beach where you can kick back with a beer in hand and spend the day relaxing.
Praia da Falesia - This beach is notable for its impressive red and white rock hills which contrast nicely with the calmness of the water. In the afternoons, when the sun is setting, you will see locals and tourists alike casting their nets and fishing lines from the shore. The beach itself is very long and spans between the towns of Olhos de Agua and Vilamoura, providing several amenities nearby such as bars, restaurants, hotels and the like.
Praia de Carvoeiro - Located in the charming town of Carvoeiro, this beach is unique because it is almost completely surrounded by hotels and other accommodations in the nearby cliffs. Really, no matter where you stay in Carvoeiro you will always have a nice view of the beach or be just steps away from several lookout points. Praia de Carvoeiro is actually the very end of the main street in downtown and as such, there are so many restaurant and shopping options right next to the beach.
Praia do Barril - Located close to the small town of Santa Luzia, this is one of the most secluded beaches in the Algarve. Its flat white sands and tranquil waters will have you feeling like you’re on a deserted island. You can get there by hopping on a train in Santa Luzia for 1.50 Euro ($2 USD) which takes you from the bridge next to the local parking lot over the river and onto the beach. If you prefer, you can also choose to walk from the parking lot to the sandbar which should take about 20 minutes depending on your fitness. In total, the distance is only about 1 mile (1.50 km) from the parking lot to the beach.
Praia Naturista - This is a clothing optional beach and is perhaps the most secluded beach that we had the pleasure of visiting while in the Algarve. You can actually swim and/or walk for several kilometers while nude if you wish and nobody will bother you. In order to get there, make sure to follow the signs heading west from Praia do Barril (see previous entry for arrival to Praia do Barril). It will take about 20 minutes of walking in order to arrive and this is the only way to get there.

Things to do

Cooking class - Whenever we visit a new part of the world we always take a cooking class because we honestly believe that this is one of the best things that you can bring back form your travels that will last a lifetime. Given the mouthwatering cuisine of the Algarve region, this time is no different. We highly recommend Taste Algarve in the town of Tavira. You will start your tour at the local outdoor market and learn about the different spices and salts that are used in local dishes. Afterwards, you will head to a beautiful country estate surrounded by rosemary and citrus groves where you will learn how to make a signature octopus cataplana dish and various appetizers. The tour operators are so welcoming, friendly and knowledgeable. At the end, you will come away from this experience filled with beautiful memories and a new skill.
Hiking - There are several hiking trails available throughout the Algarve, but to catch the best views of the dramatic cliffs and coastline, we recommend the trail that leads from the parking lot at Praia do Benagil and finishes at Praia da Marinha. This is a very easy hike for any able bodied person but it will easily take you a half day or possibly longer if you stop along the way for photos and video.
Boat tour - Just like hiking trails, many beach towns offer boat tours but we highly recommend a tour that offers a trip to the famous Benagil cave. This sea cave is so beautiful and unique that once inside it almost feels like being inside the Pantheon in Rome but at the beach. As expected, this cave attracts a lot of visitors and in peak seasons you will see many boats and kayakers making their way to Benagil cave but this is a must do.

Water Sports - Kayaking, boating, fishing, swimming and even paragliding are some of the many activities available at most beach towns.

Beaches - Visit one of the many beaches, each with their own personality. You can enjoy flat, secluded beaches near the towns of Tavira and Santa Luzia, red and white rock beaches near Albufeira or the dramatic rocky beaches with imposing cliffs near Lagos.
Monchique - Monchique is a region located in the highlands just north of the beaches in the Algarve and it has been a tourist attraction since ancient Roman times. Renowned for the many natural hot springs and healing properties of its waters, Monchique is mostly made up of spa towns and is worth visiting, especially as part of a relaxing trip.
Explore the different towns - Much like the beaches, each town has a different character, depending on your preference. Some are party towns, others are big tourist towns and others are sleepy fishing villages, just as they were generations ago.

Restaurant Recommendations

Casa do Polvo Tasquinha - Located in the charming town of Santa Luzia, this was our favorite restaurant that we visited during our entire trip to the Algarve region. Casa do Polvo specializes in octopus dishes and indeed, they have about 30 different ways to cook an octopus. This was literally the best octopus that we’ve ever had anywhere in the world (with northern Spain and Cinque Terre coming in a close second) but we will let you make that decision for yourself. The owners are a German lady and her Portuguese family and every day, they purchase the seafood directly from the fisherman at the nearby pier, so you can rest assured that the food is always fresh.
O Escondinho - If you want a delicious food without the tourist crowds, then this is the restaurant for you. In fact, when we arrived here for lunch during our trip, we noticed that the entire place was packed to capacity with only fisherman and local families eating. This place is so informal and casual that they didn’t even have menus as the food they serve varies with each day of the week. In the end, we had one of the best meals during our trip and it only a cost a fraction of what most restaurants would charge. We ordered 1 large bottle of sparkling water, 1 half bottle of wine, 1 mixed salad, 2 fish dishes with rice and potato fries, 1 beef stew dish with rice and potato fries and 3 desert pears for only 20 Euros ($24 USD).
Susete - Located on the banks of the Arade river in the picturesque town of Ferragudo, this high end restaurant specialized in mouthwatering seafood. In fact, right in front of the restaurant you will notice fisherman grilling their catch from the day. Every single day, Susete receives a fresh supply of seafood from the many fisherman that pull right up in their traditional fishing boats and the staff are some of the most friendly and welcoming people that we encountered on our trip. We even joked with the server that we should move here, buy a house and have 7 kids and a dog; living a carefree life in this charming little fishing village (sigh, someday soon).
Restaurante A Forja - Located in the heart of touristy downtown Lagos, this restaurant looks like a complete hole in the wall and compared to its more posh neighbors, most tourists would walk right past it. However, a savvy traveler knows that these places are often the best places to eat as they provide a more authentic experience and this time was no different. This restaurant serves traditional Portuguese cuisine to perfection and we highly recommend that you eat here, especially if you are on a budget or have a ravenous appetite like Julian (the food portions are huge).

Things To Know

Language: Almost everybody in the Algarve region speaks English as well as Portuguese. There is also a sizeable ex-pat community of people from the UK, Germany, Holland and France so at certain restaurants you may be able to view the menus in these languages as well.
Ex-pats: As mentioned in the point above, there are a lot of ex-patriots from wealthy European countries (mostly UK, France, Germany and Holland) residing in the Algarve as well as the occasional American (we’ve actually considered moving there). In years prior, the government of Portugal actively courted foreign investors and for this reason you will often see real estate listings in every town (written in English) advertised as an investment property or vacation home. According to several locals that we spoke with (native and foreign), foreign buyers who spend at least $500,000 Euros ($600,000 USD) on real estate are given the chance to obtain Portuguese citizenship and are exempt from property taxes for up to 5 years. Combine that with an ultra-low cost of living (as compared to the ex-pats’ home countries) and the Portuguese government has done a great job at attracting retirees (Portuguese and their descendants who had moved out of the country in search of work opportunities) and ex-pats, albeit to the detriment of the native population whom are often priced out of the real estate bubble that has taken hold.
Town Characteristics: Each town has a different character, depending on your preference. Some are party towns, others are big tourist towns and others are sleepy fishing villages, as they were generations ago. The beautiful thing about the Algarve, aside from the stunning natural scenery, is that there is no standard way of experiencing it. If you want to spend your entire time laying on a beach away from the world, there are towns that specifically cater to that.
Transportation: The best way to get around the Algarve is to rent a car. This is because the region is quite vast and using the public transportation system is cumbersome. Even more so if you are considering a visit to some of the cute small towns like Santa Luzia, Ferragudo and others.
Octopus Capital: Legend has it that the town of Santa Luzia is the octopus capital of the world. Although the town is so small that you can walk through the entire thing in about 15 minutes, the main street is lined with restaurants specializing in octopus and seafood dishes. This was literally the best octopus that we’ve ever had anywhere in the world (with northern Spain and Cinque Terre coming in a close second) but we will let you make that decision for yourself.
- Restaurant Highlight: Casa do Polvo Tasquinha has the best and most creative octopus dishes. The owners are a German lady (see earlier ex-pat point) and her Portuguese family. Every day, they purchase the seafood directly from the fisherman at the nearby pier, so it is always fresh.
The West: Algarve is actually an Arabic word which means “The West”. It’s the name that was given to the western territories of the Arabs during the Muslim conquest of Iberia in the 8th century CE.